Phnom Pros and Phnom Srei river cruises climb a pair of hills where Khmer legend rises straight out of the landscape, one of the more characterful stops on a Mekong River cruise. These twin hills near Kampong Cham, the Man Hill and Woman Hill of Khmer folklore, are tied to an old tale of a contest between the sexes to decide who should propose to whom. Each is topped with a temple and a long stairway up through the trees.
Phnom Pros is the livelier of the two, with golden stupas, food stalls and a resident troop of cheeky macaques. Phnom Srei is the quieter climb, rewarded with long views over the plains. Nearby lies a sobering Khmer Rouge memorial, a reminder that this gentle countryside carries a heavy history.
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