Kampong Tralach river cruises swap the coach for an ox-cart, one of the most charming changes of pace on a Mekong River cruise. Teams of white oxen haul you at walking speed along the bunds between emerald rice paddies, the way goods have moved here for centuries, until you reach the village proper.
Waiting at the end is the old vihara of Wat Kampong Tralach Leu, a 19th-century temple whose faded murals and quiet courtyard see far fewer visitors than the big-name sites. It is a gentle, unscripted afternoon, and one of those stops that ends up on the highlights list precisely because so little is laid on.
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